Ferdinand Bertude Is the FB3 the most desirable "Only Watch"?

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud's contribution to Only Watch showcases bold, flawless selections likely to thrill collectors...and send bids skyrocketing

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and anyone who sees Ferdinand Berthoud's FB3 "Only Watch" sold at a charity auction will surely find that it is indeed beautiful.

This watch is not uncommon. It is unique. This event alone will celebrate the 270th anniversary of Ferdinand Berthoud's title as Master Watchmaker. It's the only FB3 with a bronze casing, the patina of which has been developed over months. Its movement is the only chronometer-certified movement equipped with a cylindrical hairspring. On top of that, considering the waitlist has been going on for several years, this is the only chance any collector will have to buy an FB3, at least for the foreseeable future.

ocean roots
This FB3 "Only Watch" is drawn from multiple sources. Some will remember the five unique wristwatches presented by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud in 2019, their bronze cases glowing with patina, as if they were lying undiscovered on the bottom of the sea with the astrolabe, a ship commanded by Lapérouse, launched in 1788 The ship's marine chronometer sank with it. Ferdinand Berdoud. Every FB1 chronometer finds a buyer in just a few hours. The FB2 introduced a new round case shape, and the FB3 introduced a new movement with a cylindrical hairspring.

Like its predecessor, the FB3 "Only Watch" features a rusted bronze case. It is the only FB3 of its kind and the first round case in bronze from Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. Months of experimentation are required to achieve the desired shade and nuance, which must then be stabilized before the chosen finish is applied. The end result is warmer and slightly browner than previous iterations.

extraordinary movement
The FB3 "Only Watch" in-house movement is unique in having a cylindrical balance spring and an official chronometer rating in honor of Ferdinand Bertude's marine chronometer. At 9 o'clock, the three main organs of the escapement - balance wheel, escape wheel and lever - are prominently exposed. The wearer can see the beating of the cylindrical balance spring during its three-day power reserve, including through a porthole in the middle of the case at 9 o'clock. While we would have preferred the hour hand to have the same solid (rather than skeletonized) outline as the other hands, the indications are easily read from all four hands for added legibility and presence.

The movement is expressive rather than demonstrative; a reminder that this is a watch for the knowledgeable collector and never crosses the line of showing off. This discreet attitude is further reinforced by the 42mm case size, the bronze patina, and the quietly elegant patina strap.

This subtle look also allows movement to emerge with greater conviction and intensity. With shades of brown and gold, each element asserts its own personality without overpowering the others. The hand finishing, especially the polished chamfers, is excellent. flawless.